Choosing between a deep well and a shallow well pump is one of the first big decisions a well owner makes, and getting it wrong is expensive. A shallow well pump, which is a jet pump, simply cannot pull water from a well that is 80 feet deep. A submersible deep well pump, on the other hand, costs more and is far harder to service than a 15-foot water table requires. In this guide we break down the deep well vs shallow well pump decision using the same depth, power, and cost criteria we apply on well inspections, so you can match the right pump type to your specific well instead of guessing.
By Robert Harrison, Certified Well Inspector
Robert has 20+ years of experience inspecting and testing residential water wells across the western US, and has pulled, tested, and matched hundreds of jet and submersible pumps to the wells that hold them.
Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases on this page. Product selections are based on independent research and real well water data.
Last updated: October 31, 2026
Table of Contents
The Real Difference Between Deep Well and Shallow Well Pumps
The phrase “deep well pump” and “shallow well pump” is really just a shortcut for two different ways of moving water, and the deciding factor is physics, not marketing. A shallow well pump is a surface-mounted pump that sucks water up from the well. A deep well pump is a submersible pump that sits down in the water and pushes water up to the surface. Which one you can use is almost entirely determined by how deep your water is.
Here is the hard limit that drives the whole decision: atmospheric pressure. At sea level, the atmosphere can push water up a suction pipe to a maximum of about 34 feet, and in real-world conditions with pipe friction and a worn pump, that realistic ceiling drops to roughly 25 to 30 feet. That is why a surface pump, no matter how much horsepower you bolt onto it, cannot pull water from a well whose water level is 60 or 80 feet down. The suction simply collapses and the pump cavitates or runs dry. Once your water is deeper than that window, a submersible pump is the only option that works reliably.
The 25-Foot Rule of Thumb
If your static water level is 25 feet or shallower, a shallow well (jet) pump is usually the right, budget-friendly choice. If your water is deeper than about 25 to 30 feet, you need a submersible deep well pump. When we inspect a well, the static water level from the driller’s report is the single number that settles this question.
There is also a middle option worth knowing about: the deep well jet pump. It is still a surface-mounted pump, but it lowers a jet assembly and downpipe down the well to boost its reach to roughly 90 to 110 feet. For most homeowners, though, the real choice is between a shallow well jet pump and a submersible deep well pump, so that is where the rest of this guide focuses.
Shallow Well Pumps (Jet Pumps): How They Work
A shallow well pump is almost always a jet pump, and it is mounted on the surface, typically in the basement, a utility room, or an exterior pump house. Because it sits above the water, it relies on suction to draw water up through a suction pipe that runs down the well. The “jet” part refers to a small venturi nozzle inside the pump that accelerates the water and creates extra suction, which is what lets it deliver more gallons per minute than a basic suction pump could on its own.
In our experience, shallow well systems are the simplest and cheapest to install and fix. Every component, the impeller, the foot valve, the strainer plate, the pressure switch, is reachable from the surface, so a repair is often a 20-minute job with a wrench instead of a full pump pull. That accessibility is the single biggest advantage of a shallow well pump for a budget-conscious homeowner or a new well with a high water table.
The trade-offs are equally clear. Because the pump is pulling water from a distance, it loses efficiency the longer the suction run is, and it is more prone to air locks and cavitation if the foot valve leaks or the well drops below the pump’s reach. Shallow well pumps are also louder, since the whole assembly is inside the house. Typical shallow well jet pumps run on 115V at 1/2 to 1 horsepower and deliver around 8 to 15 gallons per minute, which is plenty for a standard household with a water table above 25 feet.
Deep Well Pumps (Submersibles): How They Work
A deep well pump is a submersible pump. Instead of sitting above ground, the whole motor and pump unit is lowered down the borehole on its power cable and mounted on a submersible pump hanger at or below the water level. Because the pump is submerged in the water it is moving, it does not have to fight the suction limit at all. It pushes water up the discharge pipe to the surface, which means it can handle depths from about 30 feet all the way to 1,000 feet and beyond, limited only by the motor’s horsepower and the well’s yield.
This is why the submersible is the default for the vast majority of residential wells. Most drilled wells in the US have water levels well below the 25-foot window, so a submersible is the only practical choice. In addition to reaching deep water, submersible pumps are quieter, because the noise is down in the well, and they tend to run cooler and last longer, since the surrounding water acts as a heat sink for the motor.
The downsides are cost and access. A submersible pump costs more up front than a shallow well jet pump, and servicing it means physically pulling the entire unit out of the well, which is a much bigger job than opening a surface pump. That is why a submersible pump is usually sealed and built to last, and why a check valve and a properly installed hanger matter so much. A failed check valve on a submersible system can let the whole column of water drain back into the well, leaving the pump to re-prime against a long column of air and water every cycle. We cover that in our guide to the well pump check valve, because it is one of the most common causes of a submersible pump working hard for no reason. Typical submersible pumps run 1/2 HP to 3 HP, on either 115V or 230V, and deliver anywhere from 4 to 25 or more gallons per minute depending on the model and the head they are working against.
Pro Tip from the Field
If you are replacing an existing pump and are not sure what type you have, look at the discharge pipe at the surface. If the pump body is sitting in the house and you can reach it, you have a shallow well jet pump. If you see a wellhead or pitless adapter on top of the casing and the pipe just comes up with no pump in sight, the pump is down in the well and you have a submersible deep well pump.
Deep Well vs Shallow Well Pump: Side-by-Side Comparison
The table below pulls together the differences that actually matter when you are standing in the store or reading a quote. We based these ranges on the pumps we have installed and the price lists current for 2026.
| Feature | Shallow Well (Jet) Pump | Deep Well (Submersible) Pump |
|---|---|---|
| Max water depth | Up to about 25 ft | 30 ft to 1,000+ ft |
| Pump location | Surface, above ground | Down in the borehole, submerged |
| How it moves water | Suction plus jet boost | Pushes water up from below |
| Typical horsepower | 1/2 to 1 HP | 1/2 HP to 3 HP |
| Voltage | 115V | 115V or 230V |
| Typical flow | 8 to 15 GPM | 4 to 25+ GPM |
| Typical pump cost | $300 to $900 | $600 to $3,000+ |
| Noise level | Louder, runs in the house | Quieter, down in the well |
| Service access | Easy, above ground | Harder, requires a pump pull |
| Best for | Budget builds, shallow water tables | Most residential wells deeper than 25 ft |
Figures are typical ranges based on 2026 price lists and the pumps we install on residential jobs. Your exact numbers depend on well depth, required GPM, and local labor rates.
Which Pump Do You Need? Decide by Well Depth
The decision comes down to one measurement: your static water level, which is the depth from the ground to the water when the well is at rest and not being pumped. If you do not have that number, it is almost always in your driller’s report. If you do not have the report, you can measure it yourself with an electric water level meter, and the method is covered in our guide to well water pressure, which walks through the well depth and pressure numbers you need for any pump decision. Here is how we make the call on a real well:
- Measure your static water level. Pull the driller’s report or run a water level meter. This is the number that drives everything below.
- If your water is 25 feet or shallower, a shallow well jet pump is the right choice. It is cheaper, easier to install, and easy to service, and it will perform just fine at that depth.
- If your water is between 25 and 90 feet and you want to stay above ground, a deep well jet pump with a downpipe and jet assembly can reach that range, though a submersible is often a cleaner long-term fit.
- If your water is deeper than about 30 feet, which is true for most drilled wells, a submersible deep well pump is the answer. No surface pump can reliably pull water from that depth.
- If you are replacing an existing pump, match the system you already have. Identify whether the old pump was a surface jet pump or a submersible, then replace it with the same type, sized to your well. If you are not sure, see our step-by-step guide on how to size a submersible well pump so the replacement is the correct horsepower for your depth and flow needs.
What We Have Learned from the Field
Homeowners often try to save money by installing a cheap surface pump on a well that is too deep, and it either will not prime at all or runs the motor dry and destroys it in weeks. The pump is the cheapest part of the system to replace if you get the type wrong, but the labor, the lost water, and a damaged motor quickly eat any savings. Measure the depth first, then buy the pump that matches it.
Cost Comparison: Shallow Well vs Deep Well Pumps
The pump itself is only part of the price. Installation, which includes the wellhead or pitless adapter, wiring, a check valve, and labor, can equal or exceed the cost of the pump, and it grows with depth. The ranges below are the total installed costs we see most often for a standard residential system in 2026.
| System Type | Pump Cost | Typical Installed Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Shallow well jet pump | $300 to $900 | $600 to $1,700 |
| Deep well jet pump | $500 to $1,500 | $1,000 to $3,000 |
| Submersible deep well pump | $600 to $3,000+ | $1,100 to $5,500+ |
Installed costs assume a standard residential job. Deeper wells, a new wellhead, or long wiring runs push the submersible total toward the top of the range and higher.
Installation and Maintenance Differences
The two pump types also differ in how they are installed and how you keep them running, and that has a real impact on your long-term cost of ownership.
Shallow well (jet) pumps install above ground. You plumb the suction pipe down the well, add a foot valve and strainer plate at the bottom to keep debris out and hold prime, then mount the pump, pressure tank, and switch at the surface. Because everything is reachable, maintenance is straightforward: you can inspect the impeller, clean the strainer, and replace a worn foot valve without pulling the pump. The main things to watch are losing prime after a long shutdown, a leaking foot valve, and cavitation if the well drops. Shallow well systems also need to be re-primed after a power outage or a long period of not running.
Submersible deep well pumps install down the borehole. The pump is lowered on its cable, clamped to a submersible pump hanger at the correct depth, and the discharge pipe is sealed at the surface with a wellhead or pitless adapter. A check valve sits between the pump and the pipe to stop the water column from draining back into the well. Servicing a submersible means pulling the entire unit, which is a more involved and expensive job, so these pumps are built to last and are usually left alone for years. The routine checks are simpler: confirm the thermal overload is not tripping, the pressure switch is cutting in and out at the right pressures, and the tank precharge is correct. Both systems benefit from a properly sized pressure tank to reduce short cycling, and a healthy check valve is what keeps a submersible from re-priming a long column of water on every start.
Where to Buy the Right Well Pump in 2026
Once you have your well depth and required flow, here are the core components you will be shopping for, with the search terms that get you to the right product. Use the exact horsepower and voltage your well calls for, and pair the pump with a matching check valve and pressure tank.
| Component | What to Look For | Why You Need It |
|---|---|---|
| Shallow Well Jet Pump | 115V, 1/2 to 1 HP, 1.25 inch suction | Surface pump for wells up to about 25 ft |
| Submersible Well Pump | 1/2 to 1 HP, 115V or 230V, 3.5 inch | For wells deeper than about 30 ft |
| Well Pump Check Valve | Matched to your discharge pipe size | Stops water draining back into the well |
| Well Foot Valve | With integrated strainer plate | Holds prime and keeps debris out of a jet pump |
| Well Pressure Tank | 30 to 80 gallon, bladdered | Stores pressure and cuts down on pump cycling |
| Well Pump Disconnect Box | Fused, with lockout, rated to pump amps | A safe, code-compliant shutoff for the pump |
Always match the check valve and foot valve to your pipe diameter, and size the pressure tank to your pump’s GPM to avoid short cycling. When in doubt, have the components verified against your well depth and flow requirement.
See Also
How to Size a Submersible Well Pump 2026: Complete Guide — the step-by-step method to pick the right horsepower once you have chosen a submersible.
Well Pump Check Valve 2026: How It Works, Test and Replace — the component that keeps a submersible system from re-priming on every cycle.
How to Increase Well Water Pressure 2026 — for the pressure and depth numbers that feed into your pump decision.
FAQ: Deep Well vs Shallow Well Pump
What is the difference between a deep well pump and a shallow well pump?
The difference is how the water is moved and how deep it can come from. A shallow well pump is a surface-mounted jet pump that pulls water up by suction, which only works to about 25 feet. A deep well pump is a submersible unit that sits down in the well and pushes water up, so it can handle depths from 30 feet to over 1,000 feet.
How deep can a shallow well pump pull water?
About 25 to 30 feet at most. Atmospheric pressure limits the suction lift of any surface pump to roughly 34 feet in theory, and pipe friction and a real pump bring that practical limit down to about 25 to 30 feet. Deeper than that and the pump will cavitate or run dry.
Can I use a shallow well pump in a deep well?
No, not reliably. A shallow well jet pump cannot pull water from a well whose water level is below about 25 feet. For a deeper well you need a submersible deep well pump, or in the 25 to 90 foot range a deep well jet pump with a downpipe can sometimes be used.
Is a submersible pump better than a jet pump?
It is better for deep wells, where it is the only option. For a shallow well with a high water table, a jet pump is a perfectly good, lower-cost choice that is easier to service. The right answer depends on your water depth, not on which type is inherently superior.
How do I tell if I have a deep well or shallow well pump?
Look at the discharge pipe at the surface. If the pump body is in the house and you can reach it, you have a shallow well jet pump. If you see a wellhead or pitless adapter on top of the casing and the pipe comes up with no pump in sight, the pump is down in the well and you have a submersible deep well pump.
What does it cost to install a deep well pump vs a shallow well pump?
As a total installed cost in 2026, a shallow well jet pump system typically runs $600 to $1,700, while a submersible deep well pump system runs $1,100 to $5,500 or more. The gap comes from the more expensive submersible pump and the deeper, more labor-intensive install. Deeper wells push the submersible total toward the top of the range.
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